Tag Archives: exfoliation

Exfoliants – What, How, When?

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What..

An exfoliant is a product which removes dead cells from the surface of the skin, revealing a clearer, smoother, and more even-toned complexion underneath. Exfoliants are instrumental in unclogging pores and fading post-breakout marks, in lessening dryness and improving the appearance of discoloration.

How….

There are three types of exfoliants: exfoliating acids, enzyme exfoliators and physical exfoliants.

Exfoliating acids dissolve the “glue” which holds skin cells together, which results in the shedding of dead cells. Acids are quite powerful and their effectiveness makes the ideal for treating very oily, acneic skin. AHA (alpha-hydroxy) acids are water soluble and penetrate less than BHA (beta-hydroxy) acids, which are oil soluble and penetrate deeper.

The most common AHAs are lactic, glycolic, malic, mandelic, and tartaric acids.

BHAs commonly found in skincare: salicylic acid and betaine salicylate.

Exfoliating acids suit anyone who has clogged pores, blackheads, breakouts, dryness, flakiness, fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, dullness, discoloration, or rough texture. Anyone can safely use exfoliating acids, provided the ph and concentration are suitable.

Examples of products with exfoliating acids: Acne Clearing Wash, AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel.

Enzyme Exfoliators

Enzymes are fruit-derived. They contain no acids or grains. This means they can offer a gentler, no-sting exfoliation, which is very helpful for sensitive skin types. Pineapple, pumpkin, pomegranate, and papaya are the most common fruit enzymes used in skincare products. They work by dissolving and digesting the protein found in dead skin cells, thereby revealing smoother skin.

Both exfoliating acids and exfoliating enzymes dissolve dry skin cells, but there are a few main differences in how they work. Enzymes work more on the surface, while acids slip deeper into the skin’s surface. Also, enzymes are activated by water and work more slowly to digest cellular buildup. Apply them to damp skin and leave them on for anywhere from 15 to 20 minutes.

Any kind of exfoliation can improve clogged pores, blackheads, blemishes, dryness, flakiness, fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, dullness, and discoloration. With that being said, anyone who can’t tolerate exfoliating acids will find enzymes a particularly good option.

Examples of enzyme exfoliants: Enzymatic Fruit Exfoliant.

Physical Exfoliants

Physical exfoliants, such as face scrubs, cleansing brushes, and washcloths, have a slightly abrasive texture that when massaged across the skin, manually sloughs off dry, dead skin cells. This type of exfoliant complements exfoliating acids and enzymes. Whereas acids and enzymes dissolve and loosen dead cells, physical exfoliants can actually lift them up and away.

All skin types can use physical exfoliants, even sensitive skin. The key is to use very light pressure. If you’re using a face scrub, let the beads or particles gently glide over the skin. People often make the mistake of pushing too hard, which can result in redness and irritation.

Examples pf physical exfoliants: Almond Grain Exfoliant, Organic Skin Radiance Exfoliant, MicroGel Peeling, Desquacream, GerPeel

When…

No more than five times per week. When it comes to making recommendations for the skin, it’s always hard to generalize for all skin types but for most, four to five times per week is plenty.

Sensitive Skin Explained

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With winter fast approaching, sensitive skin is even more at risk of being irritated by harsh conditions.
True sensitive skin is triggered by sun exposure, fragrances, soaps, products, the weather, chemicals, inflammatory foods, and alcoholic beverages. It takes time to find the culprit and dermatologists specialize in patch testing and may test for over 100 different substances.

Rosacea is usually a constant once it appears. It is characterized by red flushing; small, visible capillaries; watery eyes; and small inflamed bumps; but it can be controlled. Take the necessary steps to treat rosacea before it becomes severe and avoid the triggers that exacerbate it.
Sensitized skin is much easier to determine and care for. Skin becomes sensitized from being exposed to harsh, too abrasive products, such as alcohol in lotions, rough face scrubs, AHAs in cleansers and toners.

They key is to treat senitized skin gently:

Modify cleansing and skin care routines during the colder months, in dry climates, and in hard water areas. Non-foaming, sulfate-free cleansers, milder exfoliants, and fragrance-free moisturizers suited to skin type will help restore the glow to compromised skin.

Do not scrub the skin. Cleanse with only the fingertips and blot dry; never rub the face with a towel. Because so many things, including even gentle active ingredients and professional treatments, can cause superficial flaking and peeling, the temptation to speed up the process by scouring off dead skin cells can be irresistible.

Grainy scrubs, baking soda paste, sonic cleansing brushes, spa gloves, buffing pads, loofahs, washcloths, and even towel-drying can spell trouble for sensitized skin. Side effects include redness; burning; prolonged scaling; increased sun-sensitivity; a thick build-up of keratin; and an uneven, blotchy skin tone.

Attempting to scrub off flaking and thickened dead skin will backfire. The body quickly produces a thicker buildup to protect itself, just like calluses form after repeated friction from ill-fitting shoes and pedicure paddles. Once this behavior is discontinued, sensitized skin can improve dramatically.

Water intake hydrates the skin from within, improves elasticity, plumps fine lines and wrinkles, and helps achieve a healthy glow. When the skin is well-hydrated, it is easier to address dry skin, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, and eczema. Caffeine, alcohol, and smoking dehydrate the skin, so it is best to cut back drastically or stop completely.

Running a cool mist humidifier at night will hydrate the skin and help counteract the drying effects of cold weather, dry climate, heaters, and air conditioners. Clean as directed to prevent fungus and bacteria growth.

Choose fragrance-free products when possible. Perfumes, mixtures of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents can be irritating to sensitized skin and very reactive in sunlight.

Do not overheat homes and avoid heat sources like hot stoves, ovens, hairdryers, fireplaces, space heaters, hot showers, and direct sun.

 

Four Steps to Set Back the Clock

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This Sunday we set the clock forward, to signal the long awaited coming of spring. High time to set eyes on green rather than dirty white!

Mature skin showing winter damage needs its own clock set back, not forward. Coming out of hybernation mature skin is in need of special care and the following 4 step program goes a long way to help renew and rejuvenate.                                         dreamstime_xs_11675419

1. Exfoliate to get rid of accumulated dead, dry cells. This will also brighten the complexion and refine the skin texture. Apply a nourishing mask.

2. Cleanse and Tone daily using revitalizing products.

3. Apply Day & Night regenerating and lifting creams.

4. Repeat Step 1 every 2 weeks.

This month we suggest treatment products by Payot-Paris and Ilike Organic Skin Care.

Step 1. Yogurt Power Peel followed by Rich Carrot Mask by Ilike Organic Skin Care

Step 2. Fraicheur Cleanser/Toner by Payot-Paris or Rose Petal Milk/Toner by Ilike Organic.

Step 3. Perform Lift Day/Night/Neck by Payot-Paris or Glycolic Medlar Treatment by Ilike  Organic Skin Care.

Over and above the 4 steps, we recommend a special step which does not involve any product. Instead of working on the skin, this routine was specially developed by Dr.Payot to work on the facial muscles, just like going to the gym for the face.

In conjunction with high quality products it is very helpful to practice facial exercises, just like going to the gym will enhance the results of a good diet. 

Dr.Payot Facial Exercise Program can be seen if you click on the link.

We hope you make use of these suggestions and enjoy spring time looking your best.

Nadia Danay

P.S. To see any of the products just click on the link to be taken to the page.

 

Sonic Face Brushes – Pros & Cons

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The last few years have seen a serious growth in the sales of mechanical face brushes, with Clarisonic leading the pack.

Here we will try to make things clearer, without the hype.

As an aesthetician with more that 25 years of experience, I am quite familiar with the concept of face brushing. In years gone by we used to use and sell lovely little face brushes, some with natural bristles, others less costly had nylon bristles.

Even back then, the purpose of using the brush was to enhance the results of face cleansing. Oily skin with blackheads was greatly improved when the person diligently used the brush to spread and work in the cleansing milk or foam. Dry skin also benefited from the removal of dead cells and acquired a lovely glow. Mature skin definitely benefited because of the increased blood flow to the area, which improved nutrition and cell renewal.

Brushing  was not recommended for very sensitive skin or pustular acne. Sensitive skin may become worse from the brushing action that could irritate. Pustular acne was in danger of spreading the acne causing bacteria by accidentally breaking pustules while brushing. Acneic skin tends to be sensitive and brushing could increase that problem.

The advantages I outlined above are still standing, except that the mechanical brushes will do the work for you, like the sonic toothbrushes will clean your teeth.

If used diligently, the manual brush will give identical results to the sonic brush. The key here is to actually use it daily. Of course, if one spends upward of $100.- on a sonic brush it stands to reason that one will, at least at the start, use it more than one which cost $15.- It’s all down to psychology: if it costs more it must be better.

I would avoid manual brushes with nylon bristles, because they may be scratchy. Natural bristles work very well and need little care. Just rinse well and let dry with bristles facing down, on a towel. Otherwise water will seep into the handle( usually made of wood) and cause it to crack over time. It’s a good idea to disinfect your brush weekly, to avoid creating a bacterial culture in the bristles.

Sonic brushes need disinfection as well and if you opt for one you will be very happy with the results, just as happy as when using a common-or-garden variety. True, there’s nothing fancy about the latter and you cannot carelessly mention to your friends you had just finished brushing with the latest gadget. It just does not have the same “cool, with-it” vibe, a must for many people.

To conclude, sonic brushes are doing just as great a job as manual ones, but if you want one, just go ahead, but at that price you better use it religiously!

Nadia Danay

Summer Travel Kits & Maxi Duo

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  • Minis & Maxi : Travel Kits & Maxi Duos
  • Gernetic Travel Kits
  • Ilike Travel Kits
  • Sothys Travel Kits
  • Sothys Maxi Duos

Gernetic Travel Kits

Perfect size to take on a trip, will last up to three weeks and takes up minimum space.
A great way to try out new products or a lovely, thoughtful gift.
Four options to choose from:

#1  Glyco 50ml + Fibro 50ml + Synchro 30ml
#2  Glyco 50ml+Fibro 50ml+Synchro 30ml+MyoMyoso30ml
#4  Glyco50ml+Fibro50ml+Synchro30ml+Vasco30ml
#6  Glyco50ml+Fibro50ml+Synchro30ml+Immuno30ml


Ilike Organics Travel Kits

Each pouch contains a milk cleanser 30ml + an exfoliant 17.25ml + a mask 17.5ml + a moisturizer 12.5ml.

1. Hyaluronic Time Erase Complex- anti aging.
2. Balancing – oily/acneic.
3. Vitalizing – normal/combination.
4. Time Reverse – aging, dry
5. Brightening – Hyperpigmentation
6. Calming – sensitive
7. Grape Stem Cell – anti aging, protective.
8. Eyes and Lips

Sothys Maxi Duo Cleanser + Toner Duo in double the regular size.Only the size is bigger, the price is the same as for regular size products.  Exceptional value for all budgets.

1. Clarity Cleanser 400ml + Clarity Toner 400ml 
for Sensitive Skin and Broken Capillaries.
2. Comfort Cleanser 400ml+Comfort Toner 400ml 
for Dry Skin.
3. Purity Cleanser 400ml + Purity Toner 400ml 
for Oily Skin


Sothys Travel Kits

Four products in each kit : Cleanser 40ml + Toner 40ml + Moisturizer 15ml + Serum 15ml.Great for one week trip or a thoughtful gift.
1. Vitality Kit – Normal/Combination Skin
2. Comfort Kit – Dry Skin
3. Anti-Age 2 Kit – First Fine Lines
4. Anti-Age 3 Kit – Mature Skin 

Exfoliation for Mature Skin

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I was inspired to write this by reading another interesting post by Perry Romanowski’s from The Beauty Brains.

In the past I wrote about the importance of exfoliation for maintaining good skin and some readers may wonder if exfoliation can be done indefinitely, or, as Peter’s client put it “Does exfoliating make you run out of skin?”

The answer is resoundingly NO.

The skin has a basal layer ( the live layer) which produces new skin cells that travel upwards and become the top layer. At this point these cells are dead and will naturally flake off to make room for new ones, and so on. The whole process takes about 35 days. Stem cells in the basal layer produce skin cells indefinitely, but, with aging the production slows down. This in turn means the natural sloughing process slows down too and this is why aging skin has that greyish tinge : it’s been around too long.

Exfoliation takes care of that problem by removing the dead cells and making room for fresh ones to come to the surface.

Exfoliating excess dead cells also eases penetration of anti-aging serums and creams and hereby enhances their effectiveness.

You have multiple choices when choosing exfoliants:

1. grainy, mechanical ones that work by gently moving your fingertips in small circles.

2. enzyme peels ( e.g.from pineapple, papaya) which are applied and allowed to work for a few minutes, then rinsed off.

3. AHA like glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid which can be done by an aesthetician.

4. chemical peels like TCA done by a dermatologist.

5. microdermabrasion that is done by either an aesthetician or dermatologist.(in reality it will be done by the nurse)

Exfoliation is beneficial for mature skin and should be done regularly, as part of a good skin care maintenance program.