Exfoliation for Mature Skin

I was inspired to write this by reading another interesting post by Perry Romanowski’s from The Beauty Brains.

In the past I wrote about the importance of exfoliation for maintaining good skin and some readers may wonder if exfoliation can be done indefinitely, or, as Peter’s client put it “Does exfoliating make you run out of skin?”

The answer is resoundingly NO.

The skin has a basal layer ( the live layer) which produces new skin cells that travel upwards and become the top layer. At this point these cells are dead and will naturally flake off to make room for new ones, and so on. The whole process takes about 35 days. Stem cells in the basal layer produce skin cells indefinitely, but, with aging the production slows down. This in turn means the natural sloughing process slows down too and this is why aging skin has that greyish tinge : it’s been around too long.

Exfoliation takes care of that problem by removing the dead cells and making room for fresh ones to come to the surface.

Exfoliating excess dead cells also eases penetration of anti-aging serums and creams and hereby enhances their effectiveness.

You have multiple choices when choosing exfoliants:

1. grainy, mechanical ones that work by gently moving your fingertips in small circles.

2. enzyme peels ( e.g.from pineapple, papaya) which are applied and allowed to work for a few minutes, then rinsed off.

3. AHA like glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid which can be done by an aesthetician.

4. chemical peels like TCA done by a dermatologist.

5. microdermabrasion that is done by either an aesthetician or dermatologist.(in reality it will be done by the nurse)

Exfoliation is beneficial for mature skin and should be done regularly, as part of a good skin care maintenance program.

Getting Your Skin Ready for Spring

dreamstimefree_130900

 

Winter is on its last legs, we hope, so we turn our attention on the current state of the skin. Our faces had to put up with harsh winds, snow, rain, cold outdoors and overheated and dry indoors. Our winter skin care regime should have included nourishing creams and masks. Even in the best case scenario, assuming the skin is in good shape, weather change brings change in the skin care routine.

Take a look at the skin after cleaning it well. Notice any imperfections, any flakiness, any rough spots. Now is the time to apply a good exfoliation.

By exfoliating we remove accumulated dead cells, build-up of makeup and pollution. Winter dryness causes dehydration and flakiness. By exfoliating we prepare the skin for a fresh start.

There are many choices for exfoliants : classic scrubs with small beads are the most basic (keep well away from crushed almonds or other”natural”bits that can be scratching the skin like so many needles). A good mechanical scrub is GerPeel by GERnetic.

Better exfoliants will contain plant enzymes, or lactic acid and do not need scrubbing, as the enzymes break down the protein in the dead cells and all you need to do is wash them off. A good example is Yogurt Power Peel by Ilike Organic Skin Care.

Chemical peels, such as glycolic acid peels, are done by an aesthetician and will give splendid results, especially if you sign up for a series of 4-6 treatments.

If you don’t want to commit to that, you can use a trio of glycolic acid home care products that effect an exfoliation over time. There is absolutely no down time and the results are excellent. A good example is the Glycolic Acid Trio by Peter Thomas Roth.

The same company has an interesting exfoliation called Laser-Free Retexturizing, which combines enzymes with microscopic jojoba beads and glycolic acid for deep exfoliation, plus an extract from a South American plant called dragon’s blood, to repair skin damage, plus sweet almond, apricot and mango oils to moisturize. This product packs a real 1-2-3 punch.

Regardless of the method you choose to exfoliate, once this step is done you can turn to a deep moisturizing mask used as a treatment for a week. It will deeply hydrate the skin and assist in eliminating fine lines due to winter dehydration.

Now you’re ready to start your spring skin care routine. The same way you review your spring wardrobe, you must review your skin care array of products. Check your milk cleanser and toner. Are they still smelling clean and fresh? Then keep on using them, by all means. Just make sure storing them near a heater over winter hasn’t turned them into a bacteria hotel.

Moisturizers, for both dry and oily skins, are a daily must in the morning. Try to use a moisturizer with sunscreen and if not, use a sunscreen AND a moisturizer.

Do change your night cream to a lighter, nourishing one. It’s time to add an eye cream to the routine and prevent new lines.

Do keep on using a moisturizing mask once a week, preceded by a light exfoliation.

Following this routine will result in peaches’n cream skin, ready to welcome spring and summer in our gardens and patios.

Questions I answered recently.

Recently I joined a panel of experts on CharmRoom, a website dedicated to answering skin, hair, makeup and body related questions.

Here are some of the questions I answered, in the hope that this will help other people who have the same question.

Q : “I am new to makeup and want to know the best ways to make my eyelashes look thicker. Thkx!”

A : Use a “volumizing” mascara, like Blinc.
This mascara not only enhances the length and volume of the lashes, but does not run even if you cry.
Ideal for contact lens wearers.
Remove with warm water only, no remover or cleanser.

Q :I wash my face daily, but within 3 hours my face is extremely oily again. What should I do? “

A : Change whatever you’re using to wash your face. It probably contains alcohol which strips the skin and this is why the skin produces more oil.
The oil is there as a protection and if you take it all off, the skin will produce more in self defence.
The face wash I suggest has no alcohol, but cleans the excess oil without stripping the skin bare.  Here is the link to Sothys Purifying Foaming Gel. Another good face wash is Peter Thomas Roth Gentle Foaming Cleanser

:What is a good face cream that will not make my face break out?”

:I suppose the creams that make your face break out are not for your skin type.
It’s not easy finding a good cream if you have combination skin.
I suggest Synchro2000 by GERnetic, which is a moisturizing and regenerating cream that you can use both day and night and whose light texture is just perfect for skin like yours.

Do you have questions like these? Do you have comments on the questions / answers in this post? Don’t be shy! Let us hear your voice and we’ll thank you for it.

Cheers,

Nadia

by Nadia Danay

Moisturizers – We All Need Them

 

dreamstime_xs_3019126

Our skin is a complicated structure, but today we’re only focusing on two basic components : oil and water.

Oil, otherwise known as “sebum” is produced by tiny sebaceous glands. The job of the sebum is to cover the skin like a protective wrap against outside harmful elements, like bacteria, dust, pollution.

Too little oil results in dry skin, while too much oil results in oily skin.

Water is necessary for most of the body functions and is a very large component of every cell. Even if we drink enough for our body, the first organ to lose water content is the skin. This is why we need to moisturize in addition to drinking.

Too little water results in dehydrated skin. This is skin that shows tiny scratches, almost like  they were made by a fine needle, going in all directions. Chronically dehydrated skin will develop wrinkles regardless of age.

OIly skin is very often dehydrated because of harsh, cheap cleansing products which strip the skin not only of too much oil, but also of precious water.

Moisturizers are formulated to respectively suit oily and dry skin and using the wrong moisturizer can result in break outs (oily skin) or diminished but still present dehydration (dry skin).

It is customary to use a moisturizer for day time because our various activities will invariably result in water loss. In addition to replacing water, moisturizers are also protecting the skin against water loss.

Many moisturizers contain SPF, which saves us the use of 2 products instead of just one. The problem here is that SPF needs to be re-applied during the day and no one I know is ready to take off their make up in mid-day, just to re-apply moisturizer!!

The solution is to use mineral powders with SPF and apply this several times a day.

I look forward to your comments and questions. Have a great week!